ANDAM, the French National Association for the Development of Fashion Arts, celebrated its 25th anniversary during Paris Fashion which has come to a close this week.
ANDAM president Pierre Bergé and founder Nathalie Dufour were joined by sponsors; Kering’s François-Henri Pinault, LVMH’s Pierre-Yves Roussel and Swarovski’s Nadja Swarovski to host the celebration dinner held at Hôtel Potocki.
The event was a special evening where emerging designers, past First Collection winners Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant of Coperni Femme, 2013 winner Alexandre Mattiussi, Yaz Bukey (a two-time ANDAM winner), Gareth Pugh (2008), Anthony Vaccarello (2011), Joseph Altuzarra, Charlotte Dellal, Mary Katrantzou, Gaspard Yurkievich, Felipe Oliveira Baptista and Alexandre Mattiussi recent LVMH prize finalist Chris Gelinas, and many industry professionals such as Coco Rocha, Farida Khelfa, Caroline de Maigret, Mademoiselle Agnès and Loïc Prigent.
France’s new Minister of Culture Fleur Pellerin was also a VIP in attendance opening the speeches and promising support for the industry.
Speaking of the early beginnings of the ANDAM award Natalie Dufour said “Martin Margiela presented a dossier [in 1989], and thanks to the ANDAM prize he was able to do his first show, so we weren’t mistaken. It makes me really proud, and it’s so gratifying to see so much support from all over.” The ANDAM award helped to launch the careers of many illustrious designers including Christophe Lemaire, (1990); Viktor & Rolf (1994); and Jean Touitou, of A.P.C.
Mr. Pinault talked of inspiration of emerging designers to the fashion industry saying “Small houses require a lot of time and energy, but when talents like Joseph [Altuzarra] arrive in a group like ours…watching it grow is an inspiration for everyone.”
Iris van Herpen, is a true emerging star having won this year’s Fashion Award with her incredible, futuristic creations. Her dedication and work ethic alone are attributes that will ensure her career to be a long and prosperous one while her unique vision and design aesthetic will keep her standing out as a visionary amongst contemporary fashion designers.
Last month Van Herpen and Dom Pérignon champagne announced their new collaboration: Dom Pérignon Metamorphosis by Iris van Herpen. The collaboration will see VanHerpen produce an exclusive limited edition artwork and design for bottle and gift box to mark the end of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2004 in its first Plénitude and celebrate its pending metamorphosis into P2, or Second Plénitude of the Dom Pérignon Vintage.
“All that we know may disappear for a time, but it will rise again – transformed and reinvented.”
The new limited edition centers upon metamorphosis: signifying the closure of one period and the birth of another and a powerful symbol of evolution, transformation and renaissance. Throughout its history, the Dom Pérignon champagne has been intricately linked to the concept of metamorphosis. The spiritual legacy of Dom Pierre Pérignon constantly reinvents itself throughout the ages, selectively choosing when to emerge in the form of a new vintage, say the spokesperson for the company.
Iris Van Herpen stated her view of the design concept as:
“The name Cocoonase references the butterfly which softens her cocoon shell before she goes into her next stage of metamorphosis,” said Iris van Herpen. “This piece of art houses Dom Pérignon Vintage 2004, symbolically nestled inside of the cocoon structure, and its fine ribs and lines represent a one-way passage out. Cocoonase acts as a shield that protects the Dom Pérignon bottle as it prepares for its metamorphosis.”
Spoken like a true creative, and this is what it takes to win a major fashion prize like ANDAM according to Estée Lauder group president John Demsey who says “Passion, creativity, putting emotion into your work, taking a risk, For me, Iris carries the glamorous mantle of Parisian fashion, and Coperni have incredible youth and energy that captures what’s going on. They represent sort of the bookends of what’s going on in fashion.”
Pierre-Yves Roussel, chairman and chief executive of the LVMH Fashion Group agreed to the sentiment saying:
“We always look at creative talent, but it’s not just about that,” allowed “It’s about the ability to look deep within for inspiration, to have a 360-degree vision, leadership, tremendous energy, and being able to surround yourself with the right kinds of people. It’s about having a certain depth, but also being able to constantly evolve. What interests me most is the journey.”
Iris Van Herpen went on to stage her show at Paris fashion week after the celebration…
…as did fellow designer and finalist of this year’s ANDAM award, Italian designer Fausto Puglisi who presented the collection he designs for Emanuel Ungaro, while his own collection was shown in Milan.