The British Fashion Council continues to provide support to the young businesses by dedicating the entire top floor of the Somerset House venue to emerging designers. Let’s take a look at the best of the new fashion design talents at London Fashion Week 2015
PHINEY PET is a freshly launched womenswear label that mixes eclectic print and street influences. Set up by designer Phiney Pettman, the label takes inspiration from its South East London surroundings. With an illustrative approach to print and a hint of the comical, Phiney Pet is always about fun and never taking itself too seriously.
DIORALOP is based in Zagreb, Croatia. Their aesthetic is inspired by Polaroid pictures, which were created through intentional spills of chemicals and their exposure to different temperatures. This technique yields various colours and patterns, which are digitally printed in the UK, using variety of luxurious fabrics. Inspiration is drawn from subcultures, street fashion and issues with an emotional impact. Andreja’s taste for cut and deconstruction perfectly balanced with Maja’s vision of print and textile manipulation. Every season designers like to tell stories in different ways, using ambiguous fabrics, proportion and silhouette.
The Croatian duo met in Zagreb, which lead to the launch of their label. Andreja obtained degree at Faculty of Textile and Technology in Zagreb/Croatia. Graduated from Central St. Martins College of Art and Design in 2009 specialising in womenswear, whilst expanding knowledge interning at Alexander McQueen studio. Maja is an architect and print designer, with strong sense of texture and style.
SOPHIE by SOPHIE was founded in 2006 by Sophie Gyllenhammar. The contemporary jewellery line is all about playfulness and unexpected combinations. Softness meets roughness, classic meets modern and strong colours play against each other. Reoccurring symbols of love, peace, hope and faith are daily reminders of timeless truths in a fast moving world.
In her designs, Sophie combines classic and contemporary with her own personal unmistakable touch. Styles of timeless sophistication come to life with a splashing of colorful stones and bold shapes. Her signature flair for contrast has earned Sophie a diverse clientele of international fashion icons, royalties and modern women of all ages looking to add a punch of attitude to their everyday style.
Rebecca Morter and Gemma Vanson graduated from London College of Fashion July 2013. Having been selected for the LCF press show, the collection garnered interest from the industry and
has since been worn by Lady Gaga, LittleMix, EVE, Charlie XCX, Lisa Maffia, Cheryl Cole and featured within various publications such as IDOL magazine, Vogue IT, TUSH, Wonderland and many more.
The AW15 shows how our woman is growing stronger, more powerful and sophisticated. The collection represents this acceleration. Inspired by an amalgamation of chaos, unchallenged intricacy and beautiful fascination of the far east. Through this, the collection portrays a contrast of hallucinogenic layers building upon one another to create and distort the tattoo-like body map designs. The result emits a Joan of Arc heroine, a strong, powerful woman, covered from head to toe in armour that is interpreted through the tattoo-like formations, yet the outer, heavier winter layers to the outfits emphasise her trapped, restricted self. The collection, therefore portrays a contrasting sense of virginal, untouched purity, via layered garments that ultimately conceal the body, yet the extremely fitted nature of the pieces generate a deeply seductive and enticing result.
Through a palette of tonal greys, dense blackness and smudge of deep burgundy wine and chaotic distorted layers, the collection remains true to the brand’s identity, ultimately a celebration of the female form and exploration into both revealing and concealing the body to create a harmony in clothing-body relationship.
Founded in 2013 by Canadian designer Steven Tai, steventai is a brand known for its endearing take on the awkward and quirky girl by experimenting with unconventional techniques and refreshing silhouettes. Progressive, technically detailed and luxurious, the womenswear brand encourages a relaxed tomboy look that defies mainstream trends. By celebrating the feeling of ease, steventai’s collections often reference sportswear and are loose fitted. This casual comfort is then elevated with innovative technological developments on fabrics that create a unique blend between luxury and comfort.
Les 100 Ciels, French for ‘The Hundred Skies’, creates wearable clothing that features luxurious cashmere at the heart of every collection.
The Senior Designer said:
“We want to create high quality, timeless pieces that are staples for every woman’s wardrobe.
Using high quality raw yarns sourced from our own goat farms in Inner Mongolia,
close attention is paid to the finer details during development ensuring impeccable
craftsmanship. We strongly feel that each collection should be beautiful and ethically
made – combining style with substance.”
The AW15 collection takes inspiration from the iconic French fashion photographer and filmmaker, Sarah Moon. Her signature photographic style of dream-like images, which represent femininity, are free from time and context. It is these timeless, sensual emblems of luxury and nostalgia that lends to the designs of the new collection. Sarah Moon uses an abstract aesthetic and lets a romantic, often melancholic mood shine through. The
tone of the collection is influenced by this abstraction of colour, ranging from a muted palette of blush hues through to bold teal and dark ash as the season develops.
The Les 100 Ciels silhouette is enhanced in AW15, combining signature box shapes with slim fitting sleeves. Tapering is modernised through belting paper bag trousers and cropping lengths. A contemporary twist is achieved by mixing yarn weights, combining fine ribbing with chunkier knits and by featuring contrasting woven segments. Les 100 Ciels maintains it’s aesthetic of inventive and versatile pieces, which allow one’s personality and style to be expressed through clothing – regardless of gender or age.
Liisa Riski is a design house based in Helsinki, Finland that aims to create simple, feminine and long lasting women’s wear that is shaped by positivity, joy of life and love. The Liisa Riski handwriting is clean, feminine yet colourful and vivacious.
Each season presents a new exciting theme – story, which is told through the use of fabrics, specially created prints and knits that are designed ‘in-house’ in our studio in Helsinki. All items are created with kindness and understanding. Fabrics are carefully sourced from high quality suppliers from Europe and Japan. Manufacturing in Finland and Estonia is done to cherish the design and the skills of people making the products happen.
Liisa Riski sell her pieces through selected stockists that share the same vision and hold similar values to the brand.